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Black Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue

Arbutus unedo

Strawberry Tree

Dark jaggered leaves with small orange and yellow spikey fruits. Dye colour: Plum and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19760121*A

Arbutus unedo

Strawberry Tree

Ericaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Fruits

NW14-2

Autumn

 

Method:

  • The fruits are heated in water and reduced by half
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black-Grey
  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish

 

Castanea sativa

Sweet Chestnut

Long jaggered green leaves with spikey round fruits. Dye colour: Brown and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10005834*A

Castanea sativa

Sweet Chestnut

Fagaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Asia / Europe

Leaves

NW17-18

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • The leaves are ripped into small pieces and left to soak over night in scalding water, then reheated and reduced by half (pH7)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black
  • Add Potash mordant to the dye (pH12) = Brownish-Yellow

 

Cotinus coggygria

Smoke Tree

Dark green veined leaves. Dye colour: Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19940020*A

Cotinus coggygria

Smoke Tree

Anacardiaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Leaves

NW18

Spring – Autumn

 

Method:

  • The leaves are ripped into small pieces and left to soak over night in scalding water, then reheated and reduced by half (pH6)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH1) = Black

 

Gunnera manicata 

Giant Rhubarb

Very large green leaves. Dye colour: Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19530139

Gunnera manicata

Giant Rhubarb

Gunneraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Endemic to Brazil

Roots

NW7

Autumn – Winter

 

Method:

  • The roots are soaked over night in water, reheated and reduced to a third (pH2)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black

 

Morus nigra 

Black Mulberry

Jaggered leaves with red fruit. Dye colour: Tan and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19880440*A

Morus nigra

Black Mulberry

Moraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Endemic to Iran

Leaves

SE4

Summer

 

Method:

  • The leaves are ripped into small pieces then heated in water and reduced by half (pH8)
  • Add Iron Sulphate to the dye (pH4) = Green then turns Black
  • Add Alum mordant to the dye (pH4) = Yellow-Tan

 

Oenothera biennis 

Evening Primrose

Yellow flowers and green leaves. Dye colour: Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20110092*A

Oenothera biennis

Evening Primrose

Onagraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N America

Flowers

SW9-7

Summer

 

Method:

  • Heated a handful of flowers in water and reduced by half (pH7)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH4) = Grey-Black
  • Add Alum mordant to the dye (pH3) = Soft Mustard Yellow

 

Osmanthus decorus

Osmanthus

Oblong green leaves with dark and light purple berries. Dye colour: Grey-Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006382*A

Osmanthus decorus

Osmanthus

Oleaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Turkey

Fruit

SW14

Summer

 

Method:

  • The leaves are ripped into small pieces then heated in water and reduced by half (pH8)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH4) = Grey-Black

 

Prunus lusitanica 

Portuguese Laurel

Smooth rounded black berries. Dye colour: Purple, Blue and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19762597*A

Prunus lusitanica

Portuguese Laurel

Rosaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N Africa / Europe

Ripe Berries

NW17

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heated a handful of ripe berries in clear vinegar
  • No mordant used on chamois leather (pH4) = Blue-Black
  • No mordant on cotton = Blue
  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish-Purple

 

Punica granatum

Pomegranate

Long green leaves with red flower. Dye colour: Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19690183*A

Punica granatum

Pomegranate

Lythraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

CUBG – Tropical Asia

Flowers

NE5

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heat a handful of pomegranate flowers in water and reduce by half
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant (pH2) = Black

 

Sorbus intermedia

Swedish White-beam

Jaggered green leaves with light green unripe berries. Dye colour: Pinkish Fawn and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19550252*A

Sorbus intermedia

Swedish White-beam

Rosaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N Europe

Unripe Berries

SW16

Summer

 

Method:

  • Crush and heat the berries in water for several hours and reduce by half (pH4)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH4) = Green then turns Black on chamois leather
  • Add Potash mordant to the dye (pH12) = Pinkish Fawn

 

Sorghum bicolor

Kafir Corn

Red and green blades of long grass with seed heads. Dye colour: Tan-Yellow, Brown, Soft Green and Black.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20070024*D

Sorghum bicolor

Kafir Corn

Panicoideae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Tropical Africa

Leaves

Behind the Scenes

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Scald the red leaves in water and left over night, reheated and reduced by half (pH7)
  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH1) = Dark Brown then turns Black on chamois leather
  • Add Potash mordant to the dye (pH12) = Greenish-Yellow / Tan-Yellow
  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Purple then turn Green on chamois leather

 

Botanic Dyes Colour Research Logo

 

Botanic Dyes

Botanic Dyes

CUBG Artist-in-Residence (2023-24), Nabil Ali created a public Index Dye-Catalogue in the Garden, supported by Arts Council England.
Purple Dyes

Purple Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
Yellow Dyes

Yellow Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
University of Cambridge Museums and Botanic Garden

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