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Blue Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue

Aconitum carmichaelii

Monkshood

Smallish Purple flowers. Dye Colour: Grey-Blues and Yellow

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19840078*A

Aconitum carmichaelii

Monkshood

Ranunculoideae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Garden Origin

Flowers

NW6

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heat the Flowers in water and reduce down to a 1/4
  • Add Alum mordant (pH4) = Olive-Green
  • Add Potash mordant (pH12) = Pale Yellow
  • Add Iron Sulphant mordant (pH2) = Brown

 

Berberis darwinii

Darwin’s Barberry

Prickily Green leaves and Greyish-Liliac-Blue berries. Dye Colour: Purple and Grey-Blue

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20191202*A

Berberis darwinii

Darwin’s Barberry

Berberidaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

S America

Berries

SW5-3

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • The fruits are heated in water and reduced by half

  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black-Grey

  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pink-Purple


 

Frangula alnus

Buckthorn

Red and Black berries with Green leaves. Dye Colour: Yellow, Grey-Blue and Deep Navy Blue

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20040477*A

Frangula alnus

Buckthorn

Rhamnaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe-Berries

SE4-1

Autumn

 

Method:

  • Extract the inner juice from the ripe berries and place the husks in boiled water and add alum. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
  • Strain the juice through a fine mesh = Blue
  • Add powdered gum arabic to thicken the dye to use as an ink wash. 
  • Unripe berries with added Alum mordant (pH2) = Yellow

 

Iris reichbachii

Iris

Deep Purple flower petals with green leaves. Dye Colour: Light-Blue, Light-Green and Yellow

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19593574*A

Iris reichbachii

Iris

Iridaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Europe / W Asia

Flowers

NW11-9

Spring – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heat the purple flowers in water and reduce to 1/4 (pH7)
  • Add Alum mordant (pH3) = Light Green / Light Blue
  • Add Potash mordant (pH12) = Light Yellow-Salmon

 

Isatis tinctoria

Woad

Long elongated Green leaves. Dye Colour: Mid-Blue

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19590111*A

Isatis tinctoria

Woad

Brassicaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Europe

Leaves / Seeds

SE5

Spring – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Pour boiling water over the leaves then leave for 1 hour
  • Strain and squeeze the leaves and heat the liquid to 50ºC
  • Gently add 1 tsp Soda-Ash (pH9) and pour the liquid to one bowl to another for 5 mins (oxidise) 
  • Reheat to 50ºC
  • Add Thiox (Reducing Agent), cover with cling-film and leave for 45 mins
  • Slowly add the fabric without making any bubbles = Yellow then changes Blue
  • Crush the seeds and add gum tragacanth = Blue

Further reference to woad recipes are listed in Jill Goodwin’s Dyer’s Manual book.


 

Papaver rhoeas

Common Poppy

Close-up of poppy pod with stamens and red petals. Colour Dye: Soft Grey-Blue and Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20140057*C

Papaver rhoeas

Common Poppy

Papaveraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Stamens / Flowers

SW5-4

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Stamens are carefully collected using a feather from 9 flowers and heated in 100g of water then reduced to 10g of dye (small sample quanity).
  • Sieved through a fine mesh adding 1g isinglass (fish-glue) to the warm dye = Blue
  • Flowers are heated with Alum mordant (pH2) and reduced = Purple / Red

 

Prunus lustitanica

Portuguese Laurel

Cluster of Purplish-Black berries with Green leaves. Dye Colour: Blue and Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19762597*A

Prunus lusitanica

Portuguese Laurel

Rosaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N Africa / Europe

Ripe Berries

NW17

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heated a handful of ripe berries in clear vinegar
  • No mordant used on chamois leather (pH4) = Blue-Black
  • No mordant on cotton = Blue
  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish-Purple

 

Ribes sanguineum

Flowering currant

Light-Blue berries and Green unripe berries with very small knobbly spikes. Dye Colour: Blues.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006622*A

Ribes sanguineum

Flowering currant

Grossulariaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N America

Ripe Berries

SE5-14

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • 40g of ripe berries are heated in 100g of water and 7g of alum, then reduced to 30g. 
  • The dye is then sieved through a fine mesh producing a = Purple dye
  • 8g of dye is mixed with 3g chalk and 1g of Tin mordant (This produces a Blue paint) 
  • Dye mixed with chalk and Tin mordant = Blue Paint
  • Dye mixed with Italian gesso and Tin mordant = Dark Blue Paint

 

Sambucus ebulus

Danewort

Black berries on Red stems with Green leaves. Dye Colour: Blue and Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006420*A

Sambucus ebulus

Danewort

Adoxaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe Berries

SW9-30

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Macerate the ripe berries for 2 days in water and clear vinegar (2:1)
  • Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blue / Purple
  • No mordant = Lighter Purples / Grey Blues

 

Sambucus nigra

Elderberry

Black ripe-berries on Red stems. Dye Colour: Blue and Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006787*A

Sambucus nigra

Elderberry

Adoxaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe Berries

NE18-11

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Squeeze the juice from ripe elderberries then add 2g of juice to 1g of Tin mordant
  • Mix well then add 2g of finely crushed egg shell with 1g of white vinegar
  • Finally add another 1g of egg shell and mix well until it becomes a = Blue Paint
  • 6g extracted elderberry juice can be mixed with 3g china clay, 1g of Tin mordant and 4g of alum
  • This produces a = Purple Paint 

 

Sarcococca confusa

Sweet Box

Ripe Black berries on a Red stem

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19550372*B

Sarcococca confusa

Sweet Box

Adoxaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe Berries

NW2

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Crush the berries (pH7) with some water-vinegar 
  • Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blues / Violet Blue / Purple
  • Add Tin mordant (pH1) = Reddish Purples

 


 

Botanic Dyes

Botanic Dyes

CUBG Artist-in-Residence (2023-24), Nabil Ali created a public Index Dye-Catalogue in the Garden, supported by Arts Council England.
Red & Pink Dyes

Red & Pink Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
Yellow Dyes

Yellow Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
University of Cambridge Museums and Botanic Garden

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