Aconitum carmichaelii
Monkshood
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
19840078*A |
Aconitum carmichaelii |
Monkshood |
Ranunculoideae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Garden Origin |
Flowers |
NW6 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Heat dried or fresh flowers in water and reduced by 1/4
- Add Alum mordant (pH4) = Yellow
- Add Potash mordant (pH12) = Green / Grey-Blues
Berberis darwinii
Darwin’s Barberry
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
20191202*A |
Berberis darwinii |
Darwin’s Barberry |
Berberidaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
S America |
Berries |
SW5-3 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
-
The fruits are heated in water and reduced by half
-
Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black-Grey
-
Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pink-Purple
Frangula alnus
Buckthorn
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
20040477*A |
Frangula alnus |
Buckthorn |
Rhamnaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Old World |
Ripe-Berries |
SE4-1 |
Autumn |
Method:
- Extract the inner juice from the ripe berries and place the husks in boiled water and add alum. Leave to soak for 1 hour.
- Strain the juice through a fine mesh = Blue
- Add powdered gum arabic to thicken the dye to use as an ink wash.
- Unripe berries with added Alum mordant (pH2) = Yellow
Iris reichbachii
Iris
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
19593574*A |
Iris reichbachii |
Iris |
Iridaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Europe / W Asia |
Flowers |
NW11-9 |
Spring – Autumn |
Method:
- Heat the purple flowers in water and reduce to 1/4 (pH7)
- Add Alum mordant (pH3) = Light Green / Light Blue
- Add Potash mordant (pH12) = Light Yellow-Salmon
Isatis tinctoria
Woad
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
19590111*A |
Isatis tinctoria |
Woad |
Brassicaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Europe |
Leaves / Seeds |
SE5 |
Spring – Autumn |
Method:
- Pour boiling water over the leaves then leave for 1 hour
- Strain and squeeze the leaves and heat the liquid to 50ºC
- Gently add 1 tsp Soda-Ash (pH9) and pour the liquid to one bowl to another for 5 mins (oxidise)
- Reheat to 50ºC
- Add Thiox (Reducing Agent), cover with cling-film and leave for 45 mins
- Slowly add the fabric without making any bubbles = Yellow then changes Blue
- Crush the seeds and add gum tragacanth = Blue
Further reference to woad recipes are listed in Jill Goodwin’s Dyer’s Manual book.
Papaver rhoeas
Common Poppy
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
20140057*C |
Papaver rhoeas |
Common Poppy |
Papaveraceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Old World |
Stamens / Flowers |
SW5-4 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Stamens are carefully collected using a feather from 9 flowers and heated in 100g of water then reduced to 10g of dye (small sample quanity).
- Sieved through a fine mesh adding 1g isinglass (fish-glue) to the warm dye = Blue
- Flowers are heated with Alum mordant (pH2) and reduced = Purple / Red
Prunus lustitanica
Portuguese Laurel
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
19762597*A |
Prunus lusitanica |
Portuguese Laurel |
Rosaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
N Africa / Europe |
Ripe Berries |
NW17 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Heated a handful of ripe berries in clear vinegar
- No mordant used on chamois leather (pH4) = Blue-Black
- No mordant on cotton = Blue
- Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish-Purple
Ribes sanguineum
Flowering currant
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
10006622*A |
Ribes sanguineum |
Flowering currant |
Grossulariaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
N America |
Ripe Berries |
SE5-14 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- 40g of ripe berries are heated in 100g of water and 7g of alum, then reduced to 30g.
- The dye is then sieved through a fine mesh producing a = Purple dye
- 8g of dye is mixed with 3g chalk and 1g of Tin mordant (This produces a Blue paint)
- Dye mixed with chalk and Tin mordant = Blue Paint
- Dye mixed with Italian gesso and Tin mordant = Dark Blue Paint
Sambucus ebulus
Danewort
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
10006420*A |
Sambucus ebulus |
Danewort |
Adoxaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Old World |
Ripe Berries |
SW9-30 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Macerate the ripe berries for 2 days in water and clear vinegar (2:1)
- Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blue / Purple
- No mordant = Lighter Purples / Grey Blues
Sambucus nigra
Elderberry
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
10006787*A |
Sambucus nigra |
Elderberry |
Adoxaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Old World |
Ripe Berries |
NE18-11 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Squeeze the juice from ripe elderberries then add 2g of juice to 1g of Tin mordant
- Mix well then add 2g of finely crushed egg shell with 1g of white vinegar
- Finally add another 1g of egg shell and mix well until it becomes a = Blue Paint
- 6g extracted elderberry juice can be mixed with 3g china clay, 1g of Tin mordant and 4g of alum
- This produces a = Purple Paint
Sarcococca confusa
Sweet Box
Accession Number |
Taxon Name |
Common Name |
Family |
19550372*B |
Sarcococca confusa |
Sweet Box |
Adoxaceae |
Provenance |
Part of Plant |
Location Code |
Season |
Old World |
Ripe Berries |
NW2 |
Summer – Autumn |
Method:
- Crush the berries (pH7) with some water-vinegar
- Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blues / Violet Blue / Purple
- Add Tin mordant (pH1) = Reddish Purples