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Home Collections Botanic Dyes Purple Dyes
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Purple Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue

Alcea rosea Nigra

Hollyhock

Purple flower with Yellow-Green centre. Dye Colour: Purple Blue and Green.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20150196

Alcea rosea Nigra

Hollyhock

Malvaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Endemic to Turkey

Flowers

SW5

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • The flowers are heated in water and reduced by half

  • Add Iron Sulphate mordant to the dye (pH2) = Black-Grey

  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish Colour


 

Arbutus unedo

Strawberry Tree

Long jaggered green leaves with Yellow and Orange spikey round fruits. Dye colour: Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19760121*A

Arbutus unedo

Strawberry Tree

Ericaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Fruits

NW14-2

Autumn

 

Method:

  • The fruits are heated in water and reduced to 1/4

  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish Colour


 

Berberis darwinii

Darwin’s Barberry

Spikey green leaves and light Purple berries. Dye Colour: Purple and Grey-Blue.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20191202*A

Berberis darwinii

Darwin’s Barberry

Berberidaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

S America

Berries

SW5-3

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heat and crush fresh berries in water and reduced by half
  • Add Alum mordant (pH1) = Purple / Grey-Blue
  • The dye changes to blue after 1 week

 

Calliandra haemotocophion

Pink Powderpuff

Soft spikey round Red flower with dark Green leaves. Dye Colour: Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19620013*A

Calliandra haemotocophion

Pink Powderpuff

Fabaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Endemic to Bolivia

Flower

NW15-4.1

Winter

 

Method:

  • Heat fresh flowers in water and reduced by 1/4
  • Add Alum mordant (pH4) = Purple
  • Add Tin mordant (pH2) = Deep Purple

 

Hedera helix

Ivy

Round dark Puple berries in a cluster. Dye Colour: Purple and Red.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19971027*A

Hedera helix

Ivy

Araliaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Garden Origin

Berries

NE7

Spring

 

Method:

  • 40g of ripe ivy berries are heated in 100g of white wine and 8g of powdered Gum Arabic, then reduced to 50g.
  • The dye is then sieved through a fine mesh then reheated and reduced to 15g of dye.
  • It is left to stand for a day.
  • Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Reddish Purple

Cambridge Open Engage: Goats Blood, Tablets and Sacred Ivy


 

Helleborus x hybridus

Hellebore

Delicate Purple flower with a Yellow sunburst centre. Dye Colour: Purple, Light Pink and Tan-Green.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20172816*A

Helleborus x hybridus

Hellebore

Ranunculaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Garden Origin

Flowers

NE19-5

Spring

 

Method:

  • Divide the petal from the fresh flowers and heat in water (pH8)
  • Add Tin mordant (pH2) = Pink-Purple
  • Add Alum mordant (pH4) = Pale Green
  • Add Potash mordant (pH12) = Light Pink

 

Papaver rhoeas

Common Poppy

A group of Red Poppy flower with a dark Purple cross-shapped centre and Yellow Stigma. Dye Colour: Purple and Red.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

20140057*C

Papaver rhoeas

Common Poppy

Papaveraceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Flowers

SW5-4

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heat poppy petals in white wine, reduce to 1/4 
  • Add Alum mordant, Gum Arabic and isinglass (pH3) = Red Ink
  • Add Tin mordant and a little chalk to the ink = Purple pigment
  • Add the dye to china clay = Pink pigment
  • Mix pigment with Gum Arabic or Egg White to make a paint

 

Prunus lustitanica

Portuguese Laurel

Dark Purple and Black berries on Red stems with Green Leaves. Dye Colour: Purple and Blue.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19762597*A

Prunus lusitanica

Portuguese Laurel

Rosaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N Africa / Europe

Ripe Berries

NW17

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Heated a handful of ripe berries in clear vinegar
  • Add Tin mordant to the dye (pH2) = Pinkish-Purple
  • No mordant on cotton = Blue

 

Ribes sanguineum

Flowering currant

Light Blue, Purple and unripe Green berries. Dye Colour: Purple and Blue.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006622*A

Ribes sanguineum

Flowering currant

Grossulariaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

N America

Ripe Berries

SE5-14

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • 40g of ripe berries are heated in 100g of water and 7g of alum, then reduced to 30g. 
  • The dye is then sieved through a fine mesh producing a = Purple dye
  • 8g of dye is mixed with 3g chalk and 1g of tin mordant (This produces a Blue paint) 
  • Dye mixed with chalk and Tin mordant = Blue Paint
  • Dye mixed with Italian gesso and Tin mordant = Dark Blue Paint

 

Rhamnus catharica

Common Buckthorn

Yellow and dark Purple berriy growing on a branch with Green Leaves and Red stems. Dye Colour: Purple.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10005915*A

Rhamnus catharica

Common Buckthorn

Rhamnaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Garden Origin

Ripe Berries

SW15

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Frozen ripe berries when crushed can produce a Purple
  • Add Tin mordant = Blue / Purple 

 

Sambucus ebulus

Danewort

Black berries on Red stems with Green leaves. Dye Colour: Purple and Blue.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

10006420*A

Sambucus ebulus

Danewort

Adoxaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe Berries

SW9-30

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Macerate the ripe berries for 2 days in water and clear vinegar (2:1)
  • Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blue / Purple
  • No mordant = Lighter Purples / Grey Blues

 

Sarcococca confusa

Sweet Box

Black berries and Yellowish-Green leaves. Dye Colour: Purple, Pink and Blue.

Accession Number

Taxon Name

Common Name

Family

19550372*B

Sarcococca confusa

Sweet Box

Adoxaceae

Provenance

Part of Plant

Location Code

Season

Old World

Ripe Berries

NW2

Summer – Autumn

 

Method:

  • Crush the berries (pH7) with some water-vinegar 
  • Add Alum mordant (pH2) = Blues / Violet Blue / Purple
  • Add Tin mordant (pH1) = Reddish Purples

 


 

Botanic Dyes

Botanic Dyes

CUBG Artist-in-Residence (2023-24), Nabil Ali created a public Index Dye-Catalogue in the Garden, supported by Arts Council England.
Blue Dyes

Blue Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
Red & Pink Dyes

Red & Pink Dyes

Botanic Dyes: Index Dye-Catalogue
University of Cambridge Museums and Botanic Garden

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